“Wasn’t fashion always a queer thing?” fashion researcher Annamari Vanska once asked. While queerness in fashion is considered a particular subset of fashion, the truth is that queerness lies at the heart of it, both culturally and historically. There is a connection between the shaping of fashion and culturally-queer practices, such as drag. After all, fashioning the body is a practice of self-expression, having an element of performativity is part of the practice.
Drag as a practice has been interwoven into our artistic culture beginning with theatre, where male actors took on female roles, as seen in Kabuki Theatres and Shakespearean plays. It eventually evolved into a distinct form of entertainment in underground vaudeville for LGBTQ+ communities.
The rise of drag in popular culture was also supported by films and reality TV shows like RuPaul’s Drag Race, which brought many drag queens into the limelight. Now more than ever fashion trends have taken a maximalist and queer route so it is safe to say that drag queens have an amount of influence in moving the zeitgeist. Inspiring many creative directors and the public themselves, here are moments in fashion where drag has served as a muse:
The 90s, Rebellion and Revolutionary: High fashion’s best friend has (and always will be) drag
The 80s and 90s saw a rise of drag culture into the mainstream. Drag queens were no longer underground, they were now gracing TV screens and walking runways. And drag became a source of inspiration for designers who did not shy away from unconventionality.
The rise of queens would conspire with the designers’ creative endeavours, and fashion started emphasising gender fluidity and performativity. Take the 1995 Thierry Mugler’s 20th-anniversary party haute couture show. It staged the catwalk in the Cirque d’Hiver and donned models in aerodynamic clothes with exaggerated silhouettes and fetishistic latex, turning the runway into a spectacle of bold expression.
Others like Jean Paul Gaultier, a creative known for his rebellious avant-garde creations, made a collection in 1992 featuring men in skirts and women in pinstripe suits — catalysing the acceptance towards gender-nonconforming fashion.
Influence of drag’s playfulness in regards to gender expression would also appear on red carpets and the world of Hollywood celebrities. At the 1991 Academy Awards, Madonna wore a fur coat and sequined gown which took inspiration from drag queen fashion. In 1999, Celine Dion graced the carpet in “full drag” wearing a backward tuxedo, a look that was revolutionary for the time.
The 2000s to now: Drag is alive and thriving
From thereon, drag’s spirit of gender nonconformity and avant-garde fashion became more and more acceptable. Certain diva-status celebrities openly propelled drag to be labelled as ‘fashionable’ by the public. 2010s pop icons such as Lady Gaga, famously known for her close ties with the culture. Gaga had started her career in gay and drag clubs and would bring queer and drag with her artistic persona and drag alter ego, Jo. Gaga took inspiration from drag in her fashion, becoming instantaneously recognisable for her unconventional looks — often dressing in ways that society would label “gay”.
Over time, this meant that younger generations would embrace non-conforming styles with confidence. Fashion has become more than ever unapologetically queer with queer artists now propelled to the spotlight. For instance, Chappell Roan, who recently skyrocketed to stardom has captivated audiences with her bold fashion and makeup directly inspired by drag. Her concerts often include dress codes that encourage fans to mimic her looks, and have further propelled the culture of drag fashion into the mainstream. As fans eagerly adopt her aesthetic, the spirit of drag fashion remains vibrant and ever-present.
As RuPaul said, “We’re born naked and the rest is a drag.” Fashion, at its core, is a powerful form of self-expression, and no one embodies this better than drag queens. The true artistry of fashion lies in defying the constraints of societal norms, and drag culture stands as the ultimate testament to this. Over generations, our cultural landscape has evolved, as fashion and drag continue to inspire each other.
